Miss Fisher Con is less than a week away and my wardrobe is getting the finishing touches (even as you read this!). Here is a little sneak peak into the fitting of the evening gown I'll be wearing to the masquerade on the Saturday Evening of the Con. It's made from a vintage silk sari given to me by my friend and co-instructor at The Sewing Room, Maria Chenut. The fabric has a beautiful iridescence due to olive green threads in the cross weave. It's printed with a subtle black line floral and printed in a deep fuchsia of several different shades. I started collecting the fabrics and created the design along with another dress for last year's Art Deco Preservation Ball. Because my other design won out last year, I decided to create this one once again. If you are interested in seeing the original sketch and creative process you can find them in this post.
After draping my dress on the dress form that had been fitted with a 20's style corset and padded out to my measurements, I assembled the bodice to the skirt with a (hand sewn) basting stitch. Once on the dress form, even after the garment was draped, I found the front panels were really swinging together at the center front. This wouldn't do. The skirt should meet in the center or be slightly open to expose the black slip underneath.
This is a fairly easy correction to make, by "picking up" (ie. shortening ) the sides on the bodice at the waist seam. I would need to unpick the basting stitches, re-position the skirt on the new bodice waist seam and then join permanently together. It took a bit of effort but well worth it.
These photos show the slip with it's beaded applique and a closeup of the applique itself. I got lucky and found a beaded mesh appliques (and many more) at the Trims on Wheels booth at the Quilt, Craft & Sewing Festival (Pleasanton & Santa Clara). The mesh backing really made the applique soft and look like the beads were beaded directly on the garment. So much easier to tuck the edges back and just hand stitch on.
This is my corset. I made it a few years back (see this post for more about 1920's lingerie) to go under another gown. I find that it really gives me that cylindrical shape of the 1920's era and is actually quite comfortable.
And here is a little beading detail of the front opening. The dress will have the same beading detail on the opposite side so it forms a hexagon. It is made from a triangular shaped beaded trim and then arranged to make this shape with three of triangles on each side of the hexagon. It's then hand stitched in place. The opening has several hooks and eyes that will keep it securely closed at the Center Front.
I've really enjoyed making this dress and can't wait to wear it next week. Will be sure take lots of photos so that you can see it all finished.
Until Next Time - Happy Sewing!