Vintage Coat Renovation - Sewing a 1930's Inspired Ensemble
Do you ever have fabric that feels like it’s money burning a hole in your pocket? Well, I sure did when my friend Laurie Ann gave me this gorgeous polka dot viscose shantung. Oh, my, it was love at first site. And it was gifted along with a coordinating brown trouser weight fabric as well. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to sew up a new outfit, perfect for our cool autumn weather.
In deciding to sew up this little ensemble, I noticed that my white cashmere coat was still in need of it’s final renovating touches. You can read about how I added snaps to for two different fur collars here:
My original inspiration was a coat from that Phryne Fisher wears in Season Two of Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries (see inspiration photo below), which had front buttons and a back tab along with a fur collar like this one. This coat has been pining for buttons and buttonholes for the last couple of years, and hanging on my rack at the shop staring me down daily.
Not to mention that I made this hat to go with the coat last year as well. I happily added a vintage broach given to me by a dear friend and put that hat on my head.
I used this blouse pattern over the summer to make another polka dot blouse (that one was navy with white dots) so I knew that it would fit well and needed no adjustments. Can you believe I had this belt buckle in my stash after picking it up at Recrafting Co. earlier in the year? It’s so perfect!!!
The trousers were made from a pattern that I adapted from the Wearing History Smooth Sailing Trousers. You can read about that adaptation here:
http://www.thesewingroomalameda.com/blog/2018/3/27/sewing-wardrobe-basics-a-camisole-wide-leg-pants
This hat and broach are such a good combo and the hat is very comfortable. All details on patterns are below.
Patterns and Sewing Info
Hat - 1934-35 Ladies Hat, Scarf & Gloves - Reproduction Sewing Pattern #H2851 - View E Hat - Vintage Pattern Lending Library
Blouse - E-PATTERN- Mid 1930's Nanette Blouse Pattern - Wearing History
Trousers - Adapted from - E-Pattern- Smooth Sailing 1930s Sport Togs- Blouse & Trousers Pattern - Wearing History
Belt Buckle - Re-Crafting Company Alameda
Earrings - Made by me
Cashmere Coat - Given to me by my mother-in-law
Art Deco Broach - Vintage given to me by my friend Jone
Shoes - Trieste - Remix Vintage Shoes
Here you can see the original coat without it’s sash along with the inspiration coat worn by Miss Fisher.
For this part of the renovation, I only added buttons and bound buttonholes (5 of each - 3 in front and two on the back tab. I started by cutting the back tab from the sash. I needed to restitch the open end and also re-do the topstitching as it was on the sash.
Then I drew rectangles on each end with gel pen which comes off when you iron it. I then commenced with the first buttonhole by hand stitching around the rectangle (through one layer only). In the end, I omitted this step as it actually looked better when I didn’t stitch the rectangle. From the sash I also cut out ten additional rectangles which would serve as the welts for the buttonholes.
The rectangle sides and ends are tucked inside, then the welts are inserted into the hole and stitched to the front side. The back side is then opened like the front, ends tucked in and stitched to welts.
It was relatively simple and easy because the fabric did not fray (YAY!). Lots of hand stitching but well worth it!.
I am extremely pleased with the way each of these pieces turned out. I’ve already worn the blouse multiple times and I think it would pair nicely with an off white linen skirt. I think I might have some linen in my stash, but I’ll save that for another post.
Hoping you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving Week!
Until Next Time, Happy Sewing!
xo Jennifer