Progress has begun on the re-start of my Chanel-Style jacket. It's been in the works for several years now. I don't even remember when I started but I do remember buying fabric at the Mill Ends store in Portland, OR in November many years ago, and giving myself the fabric + trims for Christmas that year. Maybe my friend Angie remembers....???
So here are the details:
- Fabric - Woven wool tweed - Mill End Store in Portland, OR
- Buttons and Chain - M & J Trimmings NYC
- Lining - Silk blend charmeuse - Estate sale remnant
- Decorative trim - Recrafting Co., Alameda CA + Poly Satin fabric remnant from my shop
- Reference Book - The Couture Cardigan Jacket by Claire B. Shaeffer
Where I was at when I pulled this out of storage (Little brown canvas box that was sitting under a chair in my dining room - Class huh?)
- All pieces have seam lines basted and front panels interfaced with organza.
- Front edges basted with selvedge from silk and all pieces quilted to lining pieces.
- Sleeve buttonholes (outside) hand finished and front buttonholes interfaced and prepared for hand stitching but not yet cut.
- Fronts, back and sleeve assembled but not joined together
- Sleeve bottom edge basted with bias 2" non-woven interfacing strip for stability.
What I've done this last week and a half:
- Finished front hand stitched buttonholes (outside).
- Hand stitched lining welts to each butthonhole on the inside - sleeves and front edge.
- Joined shoulders and side seams.
- Basted 2" wide bias interfacing to bottom edge of jacket.
- Pressed and catch stitched the entire front and bottom edge to inside to give it a clean finish.
- Finished assembling and worked on finishing sleeves, including hand stitching the trim around the outside edge.
The Original trim I purchased was from Britex, however I ended up using all 11 yards in another project at some point. I also purchased Georgette for the trim but pilfered that for another project as well. In the end, I found this terrific intertwining circle trim from the Re-Crafting Co. and added a 1" satin strip that I woven through the trim. It's not perfect. In fact, It's a little too bulky and I do wish it laid more flat. But alas, in my commitment to finish, I need to overlook the imperfect parts.
Buttons and chain are quite nice, and I'm fairly happy with my choice. I read about customizing your buttons using fabric and a ring, in Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing book. This technique would have really made my buttons pop, but I finished the buttonholes already, so they wouldn't fit if I did it at this point. This jacket is definitely my "Learning" jacket.
Deirdre Duggan, the curator of Vintage Pattern Lending Library (Or Vintage Pattern Girl on Etsy) has this to say about the jacket she's been working on after reading the interview with Susan Khalje from two weeks ago:
I think Susan is right on the money when she says the hold up could be trim, buttons, etc. I believe mine is due to the lack of enthusiasm with my choice of lining - but who see's that!? And, time.
I think I need to jump right into it again and think of it as my learning piece, and not stress about it. I found that to be true with my first Alabama Chanin project as well. This may be the kick in the rear I need :)
Interviewing Susan was definitely the kick-in-the-butt that I needed, Dierdre!
The black and white plaid jacket (in progress) above is Dierdre's Jacket. It's going to be beautiful, isn't it? Is anyone out there working on a French Couture Jacket? or ever made one? I would absolutely love to hear more about your experience!
Until next time, Happy Sewing!