This blog post is about how I drape my gowns in the fashion fabric. This is only just the beginning. It will take me working on the dress in my spare time over the course of the next few weeks to get a final dress.
For this gown I started with my finished foundation garment on the dress form. I've padded it out to be my measurements. There are several dress forms in the shop, but this is one of the smallest dress forms I have. The only real measurements we share in common are the under bust and shoulder width, which on me are very small. My shoulders are about 14 1/2" wide and my under bust (or rib cage area) is quite diminutive compared to the rest of me.
Working from my fashion sketch, I add style lines to the form in black twill tape, where the seams will be, making sure to keep it symmetrical from side to side.
Because the "Ombre" goes across the width of the fabric, I will be draping on the cross grain instead of the lengthwise grain. I cut a length of fabric that is a little bit larger than my bust measurement across the front of the dress. After marking the center of the piece and pinning it to the center of the black tape between my straps, I drape the bodice to the style lines at the waist and add a small dart at the bust. All my seams are marked in pins and I trim the fabric (with seam allowance) at the style lines. I drape the back in the same fashion, adding darts for shaping at the princess seam area. I'm only draping the right side of dress, right now. I'll take the drape off the dress form and will fold it in half to transfer the drape to the opposite side. The overlay fabric will be the only asymmetrical part of the dress.
In These photos you can see that I've started draping the overlay fabric. One corner of the fabric is placed at the shoulder and the cross grain edge is draped to the opposite high hip area. Smoothing over, across the waist area, Ive added some pleats across the body and the fabric drapes down to a point (wearer's left side). On the wearer's right side the fabric has been smoothed to the waist seam. and trimmed, leaving a flounce at that opening.
The back skirt (not pictured) is a length of fabric (a rectangle) draped directly to the back waist seam and traveling around to the front of the dress at the front openings. Godets will be sewn into the front seams and perhaps added to the back if I have enough fabric (highly doubtful at this point).
I've also roughly placed the beaded appliques at the shoulder and waist to give you a sense of what the gown will look like in it's glory.
Now, on to buying lining, which I totally forgot to do. I guess, I'll need another trip to Stone Mountain and Daughter. So sad For me....Well, not really.
That's it for now! Until next time, Happy Sewing!